

The scene of civil rights riots during the 1960s, and still associated in many minds with urban dereliction, Harlem is undergoing restoration.
It remains a mecca for black culture. You can reach it by bus or the subway, though at night it would be wiser to take a taxi. Bus and walking tours are also available.
Some Harlem streets have been co-named out of respect for the area’s black heritage, such as Lenox Avenue, which now shares its name with Malcolm X Boulevard.
The area is famous for its nightlife, check publications like New York Magazine for what’s happening.
There are many famous music halls and clubs.
The Apollo Theatre (253 W 125th St.) opened in 1913 as a music hall for white only and its stage was ultimately graced by such artistes as Ella Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday, Aretha Franklin and Duke Ellington.
The Cotton Club is now at 656 West 125th Street, while its original location can still be seen at the junction of 142nd Street and Lenox Avenue. At the Canaan Baptist Church of Christ (132 W 116th St.) you can enjoy gospel music at its best, performed during Sunday services (10.45am). Others lively Sunday services, with a belt-it-out choir and fire-and-brimstone sermons, are held at the Abyssinian Baptist Church on Sundays at 11am (131 Odell Clark Place).
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